Learning about the design process, a designer’s background and inspiration designer is always a treat for me.   It was definitely a treat when I had the opportunity to interview the designer behind handmade clothing line Evil Needles, Patricia Valery.  Evil Needles has been operating since 2004, and during this time, has thrived as a DIY clothing line, plus she has even made items for music artists such as Tori Amos, Dresdon Dolls and Reverend Horton Heat.   It was great to hear about her inspiration, how she got into making band T’s,  how she maintains as a “one-woman operation”, and a little info about her collaboration with Amanda Palmer of the Dresdon Dolls.

Please tell me about Patricia Valery, the designer.

Right now, as a designer, and maybe even a little as a person, I’m going through a transition. I’ve done a lot of growing up over the last year, and when all was said and done I realized that I wasn’t where I wanted to be. I’d been designing for other people, but not for myself. If you were to have seen me on the street last year you would have never guessed that I was the woman behind evilneedles. So, instead of changing myself to fit the company, I changed the company to fit me. I’m now designing for people more like myself and my friends. As a designer I want to appeal to young people, maybe new college Grads who are still into young style but need something they can wear everyday – to work or on the weekend.

How did the start of Evil Needles come about?   What about the origin of the name?

Evilneedles came about totally by accident. Like many independent clothing designers, I started out reconstructing band tees. While I was living in NY my reconstructions caught on with the local punk scene and I just kind of ran with it. It then got really big really fast and I barely had time to breathe. Every couple of months I’d have a chance to step back from my machines and create something new, and that’s when I would come up with things like my butterfly back top, my thermal sparrow top, or my olive cowl neck top, which were/are some of my best sellers. When boutiques would contact me they always wanted my original creations, but the band tees kept me so backed up that I just didn’t have time to fill these orders.

I wish I had a cool story about the name, but it’s really pretty lame. When I was a little kid I used to be in a T.V. show in South America. My character’s name was Chunita, and that was what I used as my first company name. Then one night my boyfriend said, “You need a cool name – something like ‘evilneedles’” and that was it. I’ve actually outgrown the name and plan on changing it soon. I don’t know what to, but I don’t think it represents me or my clothing any longer.

What words do you think would describe the look and aesthetic of  Evil Needles?

It’s funny how well this question ties into the last one. A good selection of words to describe the current evilneedles look and aesthetic could be, “70′s mid-western Americana sans the blatant patriotism.” I guess you can think of it as a sort of retro working class chic.

Where do you draw your inspirations from when designing your clothing?

I always say everything inspires me, and that’s true. But right now I’m kind of following Anderson’s advice to Faulkner, “write about what you know.” Only instead of writing I’m designing. I was born in Indiana, and that’s a little of what I’m now looking to for inspiration. I also lived in Virginia, and you just can’t help but get inspired by that place.

As a “one woman operation”, I’m sure you are extremely busy!  What is a typical business day like for you?

Things are pretty crazy around here. Though I no longer do t-shirts for customers, I’m still doing them for bands to take on tour; and a handful of those bands are currently on tour. I’ve recently streamlined things so that I answer emails first thing in the morning. I then finish up the previous night’s sewing. After that I pack Etsy orders. By the time I’m done with all that it’s time for a quick lunch and then onto pattern design and more sewing. I try to call it quits around 1:00 – 2:00AM.

Standard deviations to this routine would include photo shoots, trunk shows, filling boutique orders, and sewing machine repairs – I’ve been doing lots of those lately. For example, I wasn’t even able to get through this interview in one sitting. I took a break to do some sewing and had to run out to get some needles – what a pain.

For you, what is the hardest part about being a “one- woman operation”?

By far the worst thing is all the annoying little things I have to do around town just to keep moving here. It seems like I’m always “out” of something important or I have to deliver something.

How did you get hooked up with making clothing for Dresden Dolls and Reverend Horton Heat and other artists?

I got lucky. I know it sounds vague, but it’s pure luck. My dad was a music producer in the 80′s and 90′s so I inherited all of his connections. My whole house was musical. My brothers have always been in bands, my dad has always been in the music industry, so when I started making clothing it seemed like the natural path to take. Through friends of friends I managed to pick up some very cool gigs. Over the years a handful of musicians have come to me – which is always very flattering. I’m always honored when an artist reaches out and compliments my work.

How did you make your transition from making band tees to focusing on your own clothing line?

I haven’t quite made the transition completely: it’s still a work in progress. I’ve got a box of Amanda Palmer tees, about six boxes of Hank III tees, and a box of Reverend Horton Heat tees that all need to get done. I’m also doing some tees for Steadfast Brand a local tattoo company. The first indication that I needed to move on was when I saw Hot Topic cashing in on the trend. After that the actual t-shirt manufacturers raised their prices, and I didn’t want to raise mine. Girls shouldn’t have to pay that much for a t-shirt. Lastly, I got a crash course on how badly screen printing pollutes the environment – that was the last straw. It’s one thing to work on shirts for bands that might not sell otherwise, but I couldn’t stand to be part of the problem so I stopped making new tees. And to do my part to combat all of this I just made a video tutorial that will be offered for FREE on evilneedles.com. This video shows the reconstruction process step by step from start to finish. I hope girls will use it to recycle old t-shirts into something new.

I know that you are collaborating with Amanda Palmer of the Dresden Dolls for an exclusive Etsy ensemble.  Can you tell me what we can expect to see?

I wouldn’t exactly call it a collaboration, it’s more that Amanda was nice enough to model an ensemble that I made for her. I’m excited about this project because the Dresden Dolls are one thing and Amanda Palmer is another and I’ll be focusing on Amanda Palmer. I plan on using jewel tones that will bring out her natural exuberance. All black or black and white would be too predictable, too Dresden Dolls. I want to give her something with subtle color. Beyond that I’d be saying too much, but I will send you pics when I get them.

I understand that you also write music reviews, who are some of your favorite artists?

Music, for me, is a phase. One day I’m obsessed with this band the next day I’m obsessed with that band. Lately I’ve been listening to a lot of flamenco guitar: Sabicas, Paco Pena, and Carlos Montoya. I’m also really into Victor Jara, a South American folk singer. I’m all about Florida music. No Idea records has lots of great front porch/folk music right now. Chris Wollard’s new album is getting a lot of play at my house. Justin Townes Earle (Bloodshot records) is another one of my current favorites. I think the Gaslight Anthem is amazing. They were number one on my top ten of 2008 list for Prick magazine.

A treat for Clandestine Chic readers!   Make a purchase from Evil Needles Etsy shop and receive 10% off!  All you have to do is just type “clandestinechic” in the notes before you complete your purchase.